22/10/2024
H**p fibre historically and now. Written by Kenneth Lyngaas textile designer and enviromentalist for eco-Fashion Encyclopedia.
Sources and useful information
Water footprint h**p
Global water footprint of industrial h**p textile J. Averink Water Engineering and Management University of Twente, Enschede Supervisor: Prof. dr. ir. A.Y. Hoekstra Daily supervisor: A.D. Chukalla
Comparative Life Cycle Assessment of h**p and cotton fibres used in Chinese textile manufacturing
https://www.scriptiebank.be/sites/default/files/VanEyndeHannes_KUL_Eindwerk.pdf
cotton fibre vs h**p fibre
Did you know?
If people knew facts such as cotton needs approximately 20.000 litres of water to produce 1.1. Kilogram of cotton lint (1kg cotton) approximately manufacture seven t-shirts of a low to medium quality t-shirt (heavy quality tee 150 gram cotton). The manufacturing of a modern textile takes an average of 2000 different chemicals. More than 50 per cent of the world market of fibre made from a non-renewable source of energy crude oil (polyester, nylon, technical clothing Gore-Tex etc.).
For example Cotton fibre Vs. industrial h**p fibre
H**p fibre is the oldest know industrial fibre dated back to Mesopotamia 8000 BFC is a very useful plant.
H**p is 26 times stronger than cotton and 10 times longer lasting. The first Levi jeans made out of h**p. It requires no chemicals (pesticides and herbicides) to grow,
The h**p fibre has very few natural enemies, and grows in the widest variety of climates of any w**d or plant. It is also the fastest growing plant on the planet, growing 4 times faster than corn.
Refashion a paradigm-shirt in the fashion industry . The paradigm shift in fashion or fashion revolution includes parameters that are the opposite of fast fashion, sales and throw away culture.
H**P FIBRE VS COTTON FIBRE
CONTENTS
H**P FIBRE Vs COTTTON FIBRE
Environmental impact (overall factors) +50% to + 90% -50% to -90%
H**p Patented seeds no cotton yes
H**p Cost seeds free, cotton fibre. pay
H**p Climate widest variety
cotton fibre climate dependent
H**p Natural enemies few cotton many
Chemicals dependent no cotton yes
H**p Pesticides no cotton yes
Fertilizers no (increase productivity yes) cotton dependent yes
H**p Leaf Area Index very high
Cotton very low
H**p Growth cycle 70-90 day
Cotton growth cycle 150 to 180 days
H**p Production per acre 2 times more productive
H**p fibre Strength 26 times stronger than cotton fibre
H**p fibre Durability (quality) 10 times longer lasting
H**p Softness softer than softer than cotton
Thermal ability h**p warmer than cotton
Water footprint average lowest of all fibre 2700 litre/kg
Cotton average water footprint 10.000 litres. Three times more
Environmental impact (overall factors)
-50% to -90% +50% to + 90%
environmental impact compared to cotton (-50% to -90% for all impact categories).
Cotton more (+10.000 litre/kg
Irrigation blue water footprint (0) grow without pesticides
Environmental impact (overall factors
H**p -50% to -90% cotton 50% to + 90%
H**p environmental impact compared to cotton (-50% to -90% for all impact categories).
The blue water footprint is the related to the amount of water that is needed for irrigation of the crop. Based on scientific studies is concluded that industrial h**p can grow without any irrigation and that if the industrial h**p is irrigation that not increased the production of biomass and the yield. So there is no global blue water footprint of industrial h**p: WFblue = 0 m3/ton.
H**p fibre Psychoactive effect weak or none. Cotton fibre none
H**p has one of the highest Leaf Area Index.
The leaf area of any variety tested exceeded 4-5 times the ground area covered, and due to higher rate of leaf development, shaded out any w**d development (Vallaint-Saunders, 2013).
The International H**p Association published in name of Lisson and Mendham (2015) a study to the growth of h**p. They found on average a LAI 4.25 (Lisson & Mendham, 2015).
H**p. Growing cycle Maximum Canopy: 70 – 90 days
Maturity: 120 days
Cotton Its growing season of approximately 150 to 180 days is the longest of any annually planted crop in the country.
Leaf Area Index
Leaf area index is defined as the projected area of leaves over a unit of land (m2 m−2), so one unit of LAI is equivalent to 10,000 m2 of leaf area per hectare.
Learn more about Leaf Area Index
Leaf Area Index
N.J.J. Bréda, in Encyclopaedia of Ecology, 2008
The amount of foliage in the plant canopy is one of the basic ecological characteristics commonly quantified by leaf area index (LAI). The importance of LAI in both canopy structure and functions are then presented. LAI is one of the main driving forces of net primary production, water and nutrient use, and carbon balance. Impacts of canopy LAI on the understorey communities especially in the soil are listed. The magnitude of LAI variation across the world is presented relative to terrestrial vegetation biomes. The environment dependent interactions between functional roles of LAI are discussed. Special attention is given to time variation relative to phenology, natural disturbances, and management practices.
The two approaches used to quantify LAI, either from ground measurement or using remote sensing are briefly presented. Finally, LAI as a scaling factor from stand to the whole region is discussed as a driving parameter for global and regional models of the biosphere/atmosphere exchange of carbon dioxide and water v***r.
Bast
I. Another name for Phloem.
II. Fibrous material obtained from the phloem ofjute, h**p, flax, lime, etc. Raffia bast.
Cotton is the most important natural fibre in the textile industry, despite
Cotton is the most important natural fibre used in textile industries worldwide, contributing 36
per cent of apparel fibres in 2008 (global average water footprint of cotton fabric is approximately 10,000 litre/kg (Hoekstra, 2013). Compared with other raw materials a
textiles there possibilities to decrease the water footprint for the global textile use.
Cotton one of the largest water users in textile production
Based hereon we can concluded that cotton is one of the largest water users in textile production. By replacing cotton with h**p will result in a significant decrease of the demand of water and also a significant decrease of the water footprint of textiles because the water footprint of h**p is about 2,700
litre/kg (Hoekstra, 2013).
H**p fibre Vs cotton fibre
Conformity Uniqueness
Uniformity Diversity
Exploitation Charity
Profit Responsible profit
New garments Upcycled garments
More garments Less garment
Fast fashion Slow fashion
Worthless quality Built to last quality
New materials Exciting materials
Recycled materials to Upcycled materials
Market driven. Creatively driven
H**p Look without meaning. Cotton Look with meaning
H**p Need no pesticides, needs no fertilizers
No profit on h**p
Since there was no profit to be earned on H**p since the real problem is that one cannot patent a natural plant. The farmers did not need to pay for seeds, it did not need any fertilizers or pesticides to grow (Industrial h**p has no psychoactive effects less than 1 per cent THC). Therefore a few very powerful families particularly involved in paper and chemical industry started campaigning for cotton and work against industrial h**p (the Harriman’s and Rockefellers (Standard Oil), the Whitney’s (Eli Whitney-Cotton Gin), DuPont (Chemicals in wood pulp processing and cotton pesticides), and Hearst (Newspapers, Media). They managed it well as industrial h**p were
banned by law in 1930 by the Ma*****na Act (source The secret history of America: the greatest conspiracy on earth by David Icke)
Diary Notes
George Washington
The following entries from George Washington's Diary show that he personally planted and harvested h**p. As it is known that the potency of the female plants decreases after they have been fertilized by the males, the fact that he regrets having separated the male from the female plants too late {after fertilization) clearly indicates that he was cultivating the plant for medicinal purposes as well as for its fiber.
1765 May 12-13—Sowed H**p at Muddy hole by Swamp.
August 7—began to seperate [sic] the Male from the Female h**p at Do—rather too late.
Words on h**p historically
Tracing One Word Through Different Languages Sara Benetowa As evidence now shows, in antiquity h**p was used in widely differing cultures. In the following article, Sara Benetowa of the Institute of Anthropological Sciences in Warsaw, attempts to find out through a comparative study of languages in what cultural environment h**p was first used as a narcotic. After having compared the words meaning h**p in Indo-European, Finnish, Turkish and Tartar, and Semitic language groups, the conclusion was reached that, leaving aside all the obviously borrowed words, either Finnish, Turkish, Celtic, or Roman, there remained four groups to investigate: 1. Sanskrit—cana; 2. Slav—konopla; 3. Semitic, for example in Assyro-Babylonia—kannab; 4. Greek: cannabis. In all these languages the words meaning h**p have a common root: kan. This root with the double meaning of 'h**p' and 'cane' is common to almost all the languages of antiquity. 16
It is easy to show that 'canna' means both 'h**p' and 'cane'. But what is the meaning of
the ending, 'bis'? The answer is not difficult to find if one notices an interesting detail
encountered in several Semitic texts from Oriental antiquity. For example, let us look at the
original text of the Old Testament and its Aramaic translation, the 'Targum Onculos'. The
word 'kane' or 'kene' sometimes appears alone and sometimes linked to the adjective
'bosm' (in Hebrew) or 'busma' (in Aramaic) which means: odorous, smelling good, aromatic.
As I demonstrate in detailed fashion in this study, the Biblical 'kane bosm' and the Aramaic
'kene busma' both mean 'h**p'. The linguistic evolution of the terms in question leads
Corporations history
(Gin), DuPont (Chemicals in wood pulp processing and cotton pesticides), and Hearst (Newspapers, Media) find it more profitable to sell us unnecessary chemicals, unneeded dug-up petroleum oil, immune system destroying pharmaceuticals, and axed up trees cut into real thin slices, all at over-inflated prices and at the expense of our health and living environment. For these companies, the real problem is that one cannot patent a natural plant. Almost everything produced in America by large corporations is exported for sale on the world markets.
Other commodities
The total value of oil, petrochemicals, and pharmaceutical sales totals hundreds of billions of dollars. However, with the availability of over 50,000 new products and the necessity to manufacture them, America would be a much richer nation if the farmers and the average citizen were allowed to grow this valuable crop.
Right now, the power is concentrated in the hands of a few rich individuals like George Bush, for example, who's legacy goes something like this : Graduated Yale in the Skull and Bones fraternity in 1948, went into the Airforce, got shot down and was played up in the press as a war hero, becomes owner of Zapata Off-shore Oil , which controls a large fleet of oil tankers off the coast of Kuwait, becomes director of the CIA, working to introduce co***ne and he**in in large part to America, is made Director of Eli Lilly
Pesticides and pharmaceuticals
Pharmaceuticals by Dan Quayle's Father (Lilly produces precursor chemicals used in co***ne production), sits on the board of First Interstate Bank, Puralator Shipping, and Texas Gulf (Fertilizers and pesticides to grow the Coca with and then spray on it to wipe some of it out), then becomes Vice-President and Drug Czar (During this time Co***ne influx into the U.S. increased by over 2000 %), declares war on the American people and the Bill of Rights through the militarization of a phony drug war, tricks Saddam Hussein with the help of the leaders of Kuwait, into attacking Iraq (The reason was Zapata Oil's slant drilling from Kuwait into Iraqi territory) so that he could declare war under a U.N. Mandate, strengthen the U.N. and hike up oil prices, then before leaving office, signs into law a secret Telecommunications Bill requiring the switch-over of all Federal and Bank phone lines to Fiber Optic for the purpose of electronic funds transfer as required by law in the year 2000 when cash and checks will be no longer legal.
If that isn't bad enough, he also has brothers and sons that are Skull and Bones members and they do politics as well. Neil Bush (Silverado Savings and Loan Scam), there is Jeb Bush and there are several other Bush's hiding in the BIG BUSH FAMILY. It is probably no coincidence that the Harriman and Bush families both have a history in Eugenics or race purification and Genetic Selective Breeding.
They will propagate their own young on the planet because they can afford it, while sitting back and deciding which countries can have how many children per family. Population control and mind control are the methods used by the new Fascist Roman Capitalistic Empire. Millions of people die around the world each year from debilitating diseases like cancer, AIDS, Leukaemia and now flesh-eating strep and Ebola. Does the Rockefeller-run American Medical Association (AMA) do everything it can to insure that
EXAMPLES COMMODITIES
H**P VS. COTTON
All of the founding fathers of this nation were Masons as well as almost all of the presidents. The building of early American colonies as well as the American Revolution would not have been possible if it were not for a very special plant. The H**p fibre including the plant was used throughout the world since the beginning of time for just about everything that mankind needed.
Paper made from h**p
made from h**p was used for books, bibles, maps, and money.
You can produce 4 times as much paper from an acre of h**p as you can from an acre of trees at 1/4 the cost, 1/5 the pollution, it is 10 times stronger and lasts up to 1000 years instead of only 50.
Recycling rate h**p and it’s use historically
And it can be recycled 4 times as many times as paper from wood pulp.
The Constitution was printed on h**p paper as well as the first 3 drafts of the Declaration of Independence. Even great sailing ships like the U.S.S. Constitution were made primarily out of h**p.
H**p strongest fibre on the planet
H**p is the strongest natural fiber on the planet.
H**p is 26 times stronger than cotton and 10 times longer lasting. The first Levi jeans were made out of h**p as well as all of the soldier's clothes for the Revolutionary War.
It requires no chemicals to grow, has very few natural enemies, and grows in the widest variety of climates of any w**d or plant. It is also the fastest growing plant on the planet, growing 4 times faster than corn.
The seeds provide highest source of vegetable protein
The seeds from the h**p plant provide the highest source of complete vegetable protein of any food source on earth. Even higher than soybeans.
It has also been re-realized lately that the h**p seed is the highest source of Essential Fatty Acids in the world. essential, meaning :necessary for life, Fatty Acids are necessary for us and beneficial for cleaning the cholesterol out of the arteries naturally. All oils in the supermarket are bad since they are placed in clear plastic containers and exposed to direct sunlight.
They become as bad as saturated fats, and end up CAUSING cholesterol build up, leading to heart attacks, etc. H**p seed oil can even be used as a machine-grade lubricant for engines and other machines replacing petroleum oil from the ground.
H**p fibre used in cars historically
Henry Ford built his Ford Model-T using h**p to line the side panels. The impact strength was 10 times stronger than steel alone. This would eliminate many vehicular deaths today. The Model-T was also designed to run on h**p fuel which Henry Ford grew. This was displayed in Popular Mechanics in Feb. of 1938.
H**p and medicines historically
Concentrated extracts of Cannabis from the flowers were the 2nd most used medicines in America for 150 years for over 100 separate medical illnesses. It is probably the best natural medicine for Glaucoma, stress, and controlling nausea, and works very well for arthritis , asthma, and epilepsy. It is estimated that H**p would have at least 50,000 commercial uses if it were legal in America today.
Why h**p became illegal historically
The reason that H**p is illegal in America today is because the main families in America (Masons), the Harriman’s and Rockefellers (Standard Oil), the Whitney’s (Eli Whitney-Cotton Gin), DuPont (Chemicals in wood pulp processing and cotton pesticides), and Hearst (Newspapers, Media) find it more profitable to sell us unnecessary chemicals, unneeded dug-up petroleum oil, immune system destroying pharmaceuticals, and axed up trees cut into real thin slices, all at over-inflated prices and at the expense of our health and living environment.
For these companies, the real problem is that one cannot patent a natural plant. Almost everything produced in America by large corporations is exported for sale on the world markets. The total value of oil, petrochemicals, and pharmaceutical sales totals hundreds of billions of dollars. However, with the availability of over 50,000 new products and the necessity to manufacture them, America would be a much richer nation if the farmers and the average citizen were allowed to grow this valuable crop.
The h**p cultivation historically
The cultivation of h**p for its seed and fiber dates from very remote periods. It was used as an intoxicant by the Persians and Arabians in the eleventh and twelfth centuries and probably much earlier, but was not introduced into European medicine until the year 1838. For medicinal use it is grown in the districts of Bogra and Rajshaki to the North of Calcutta and westward, thence through Central India to Gujerat. Very good qualities of the drug are purchased in Madras, but the European market is chiefly supplied with inferior grades from Ghalapur.
By the 1920s all U.S. cotton-growing regions were infested with the plant’s most serious pest, the boll weevil beetle. Crop destruction inflicted by boll weevils increased economic hardships suffered by U.S. cotton farmers through to the Depression. Pesticides introduced after World War II allowed cotton production to resume, but these were expensive and damaging to the environment. The global cotton industry still relies on fertilizers and insecticides, but new organic solutions are being sought to allow cotton farming while protecting the environment. (David J. Clarke and Kenneth Lyngaas)
Cotton
Throughout most of human history, cotton was processed locally were it was grown. It was only fired up by the Industrial revolution in the nineteenth century that tremendous quantities of cotton began to be shipped across continents and oceans. Cotton became therefore one of the highest ranking global commodities and became attractive for American companies. The American System have a protectionist policy first put forward by the Kentucky politician Henry Clay (1777– 1852) in 1824. Clay argued that protecting U.S. industry from foreign manufacturers would create large internal markets for cotton, foodstuffs, and other U.S. agricultural products.
Early cotton trade
Before the Industrial Revolution, long-distance trade in raw cotton had loosely connected various places within Asia, the Americas, and Africa, as well as Asia with Europe. Syrian cotton was spun and woven in Egypt, Maharashtra cotton in Bengal, Henan cotton in Jiangnan, Anatolian cotton in Luzern, Yucatecan cotton in Teotihuacan, Nubian cotton in Persia, and Macedonian cotton in Venice. This was a multipolar world of modest exchanges without significant linkages between them, not a world market.
Most of this early trade took place in Asia. Europe remained quite marginal—both because it processed relatively little cotton and because for ecological reasons it was not a significant grower of cotton. Beginning in the 1600s cotton textiles from Asia increasingly arrived in Europe, and European traders, especially those of the British East India Company, intensified sales of Indian cotton to China to pay for Chinese tea, but little cotton was worked up in Europe. In the early seventeenth century, however, a slow but persistent increase in cotton textile production in England, France, the German lands, and the Netherlands led to an intensification of trade in the “white gold.” Raw cotton began to arrive in greater quantities in European ports, principally from the Ottoman Empire (from Salonica and Smyrna), but small quantities also came from India, Africa, South America, and the Caribbean. Europe remained a relatively minor producer of cotton textiles, but because of its increasingly dominant position in world trade, including the trade in Indian textiles, it effectively disrupted older cotton trade networks. From a European perspective, this phase of the global cotton trade, which lasted until the late eighteenth century, was characterized by a multitude of suppliers growing cotton under various labor regimes, and by the importance of local producers and local merchants in the system of trade. There were yet no ports and merchants who specialized in the shipment of cotton to Europe, nor any parts of the world that specialized in the growing of cotton for European markets. More cotton was traded within, Asia, especially within and between India and China, than into Europe.
Shift in the 1780s
This changed in the last third of the eighteenth century with the rapid expansion of cotton textile production in England and, later, on the European continent. British cotton consumption doubled from 1765 to 1774; it doubled again in the following decade. As the Ottoman Empire proved unable to meet this rapidly expanding demand, merchants and manufacturers looked elsewhere. they found responsive producers in two areas of the world that had developed a radical new way of producing agricultural commodities: the Caribbean and Brazil. Cotton plants in bloom. For the past 400 years, cotton’s importance as a world trade good has steadily increased. The United States Department of Agriculture estimated in 2005 that world cotton consumption had surpassed 100 million bales yearly.
ton production there expanded rapidly, especially during the 1770s and 1780s, as they became Europe’s principal providers of cotton. Britain alone imported on average about 3.7 million pounds of cotton in the late 1770s from the West Indies, and about 9.4 million pounds in the mid-1780s, about half of its total imports. Yet the West Indies production stopped growing by the 1790s. Planters were reluctant to divert the labor and land that they had devoted to growing sugarcane, and the most important cotton island—St. Dominque—was disrupted by turmoil. Nonetheless, the expansion of Caribbean cotton production left an important legacy: from then until 1865, most cotton entering world markets was produced by slaves.
Cotton grows in the marketplace
Beginning in the 1790s, the United States became the world’s most important cotton exporter. Contemporary observers were surprised: indeed, a 1780s British customs official refused entry to U.S. cotton because he believed it could not possibly be from the United States. However, the United States had a climate and soil superbly suited to the growth of cotton, plus two other competitive advantages: nearly unlimited quantities of recently emptied land, as well as an ample supply of slave labor, which planters in the Upper South sold first to the Carolinas and Georgia, and later to Alabama, Mississippi, and other Southern states.
Once Eli Whitney’s cotton gin (1793) made separating seed and fibers of American green-seed cotton relatively easy, cotton exports from the United States exploded: in 1794 the United States exported 2 million pounds of cotton, in 1800 18 million pounds, in 1820 128 million pounds, and in 1860 1,768 million pounds.
Between 1800 and 1860 an average of 68 percent of the United States annual harvest went abroad, mostly to the United Kingdom, but increasingly also to other parts of Europe. Ever-cheaper U.S. cotton fed the explosive growth of the European textile industry, and cotton exports essentially defined the U.S. position in the world economy. Cotton remained the United States most valuable export product from 1803 to 1936. With U. S. cotton exports soaring, cotton growing in the West Indies and Brazil stagnated. However, by the 1920s, other regions, especially Egypt and India, became significant exporters. During the 1820s Viceroy Muhammad Ali (r. 1805–1848) tried to modernize Egypt by –Cotton Couraging cotton production for export.
Egypt was ecologically superbly suited for the growing of long-staple cotton—a high-quality fiber with a relatively small but lucrative market. Indian cotton was of much poorer quality and short-stapled, but pressured by Manchester manufacturers who began to fear too great a dependence In the United States, the East India Company brought small amounts of Indian cotton to Liverpool. However, until the U.S. Civil War, the major international market for Indian cotton remained China, and U.S. cotton still dominated European markets.
Between 1800 and 1860, thus, a relatively stable cotton system had emerged, with slave-grown cotton from the United States at the centre, providing the raw material that fueled the British Industrial Revolution. The global centre of the trade was Liverpool, entrepôt for Lancashire’s booming mills. There, increasingly specialized merchants organized the global flow of cotton, prices were set, and, by the 1860s, cotton futures were first traded. Liverpool became one of the wealthiest cities in the world. But this relatively stable trade rested on the unstable institution of slavery, which ultimately was destroyed in
America by the U.S. Civil War (1861–1865). During the cotton famine, when cotton exports from the U.S. South nearly ceased, European manufacturers searched frantically for new sources of raw cotton aided by high prices and the concerted efforts of governments. Egypt, Brazil, and especially India became major suppliers to Europe, with India effectively ending its trade with China. Huge areas that had not previously produced cotton for world markets now did so, while Western merchants and capital increasingly dominated cotton trade and production not only in port cities, but also in the hinterland. Despite widespread pessimism about the future of U.S. cotton production, the United States was again the world’s most important cotton exporter by the mid- 1870s, with sharecroppers and tenants, both white and black, increasing production and pushing the cotton frontier further and further west. In the United States and throughout the world, cotton was now mostly grown on small farms owned or rented by the cultivators themselves, cultivators often burdened by crushing debt and extra-economic concern. By 1900 the United States produced three times as much cotton as it had in 1860. Nonetheless, during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries all cotton-consuming countries in Europe made concerted efforts to secure cotton from their colonies— the United Kingdom from India; Egypt, Germany, France, Portugal, and Belgium from various places in Africa; and Russia from its new territories in Central Asia. Except for Russia, however, no European country managed to emancipate itself from its dependence on U.S. cotton. The United States, in fact, had expanded cotton growing so rapidly that it kept up with an industry whose spinning capacity grew 3,100 percent in the century after
1800.
Twentieth-century return to Asia
But by the 1920s the world of cotton that had existed since the 1780s was transformed, becoming once again multipolar and increasingly Asian. While the United Kingdom’s cotton industry entered a long decline, Asian cotton-yarn and cloth production surged, above all in Japan, which became the most important consumer of cotton, most of it from India, China, and the United States. Cotton mills also grew rapidly in India and China. Thus, there was a global trend in which cotton was again worked up closer to where it was grown, including in the United States itself, which saw the rise of a large cotton industry in the South. Not geographical proximity but labor costs were the primary reason for the relocation, which slowly undermined cotton manufacturing in high wage locations. As industry relocated, cotton growing expanded throughout the world, finally dethroning King Cotton in the United States. China, Central Asia, and India in particular vastly expanded cotton production, not least thanks to massive investments by governments and entrepreneurs into infrastructure, water supply, and pesticides. The Soviet Union went furthest; water supplies were reallocated to cotton, resulting in grave ecological degradation throughout Central Asia. In the West, cotton became less and less important as an industry with the advent of synthetic fibers. The number of cotton farmers in the United States shrank to less than 30,000 in 2000, and their markets were now in Asia and Latin America, not Europe. By the turn of the twenty-first century, cotton manufacturing had largely left the West. Although the United States still remained an important cotton grower (in 2000 its global market share was 19.5%), this was heavily dependent on huge government subsidies (U.S.$3.9 billion in 2001 to 2002). Countries in the global South (especially in Africa) which had expanded cotton output during the 1980s and 1990s suffered from falling prices, which dipped below the cost of production of even the lowest cost producers, such as Mali and Benin. Today, the world’s cotton industry has largely returned to where it originally sprang from, with China, India, Pakistan, and Central Asia being by far the most important growers and processors of raw cotton.
Establishment of the trading framework
Towards this end, two more acts were passed in 1660 and 1663. These two acts established the commercial system of the “First British Empire.” Under the 1660 act, both colonial imports and colonial exports would be carried by only English ships. This act also stipulated that certain colonial products could only be exported to Europe as long as they passed through England. These so-called
“enumerated commodities” originally were sugar, to***co, cotton, indigo, and some dyewoods. The list was subsequently expanded to include rice and molasses in 1704, and tar, pitch, h**p, and masts in 1705; the list continued to be expanded from then on.
The act of 1663 required that European goods be sent to the colonies only from England. This regulation of colonial imports was a final step towards building the mercantilist trading framework. The English government also enacted acts in 1673 and 1696 to boost the 1660 and 1663 acts. Specifically, the 1673 act established a system of duties and a more effective customs service in the colonies in order to enforce the shipment of enumerated commodities only to imperial ports. The 1696 act set up a system of admiralty courts to reinforce shipping and commercial regulations.
Generally, the Navigation Acts controlled colonial trade and benefited the mother country by increasing the “wealth of the nation.” Increasing wealth was not an end but a strategy, however. The main purpose behind their promulgation was the acquisition of national strength. In order to attain this purpose, mercantilists insisted that the financial stability of the state, achieved with a trading
framework, was a necessity. Moreover, there was a system of bounties built into the acts. Some bounties from the English government were given for colonial exports such as naval stores and h**p. Finally, the Parliament passed laws to prevent England’s colonies from producing certain
goods in competition with British producers, including the Hat Act of 1732 and the Iron Act of 1750. These, too, were designed to help the financial strength of the state.
1793 Eli Whitney develops and introduces the cotton gin. June 14, 1798 Eli Whitney signs a contract with the U.S. government to produce 10,000 muskets in 28 months.
1779 Samuel Crompton introduces the spinning machine, combining the efforts of earlier machines in the production of cotton products.
European sailing ship design
A revolution in European ship design occurred after 1450 (hitherto, Chinese ships were larger and technically superior) as shipbuilders moved from constructing simple ships to three-masted types with hulls of up to 300 feet in length. Portugal produced the caravel, a lanteen-rigged ship with a triangular sail, used on voyages of discovery. Square-rigged types built at this time included the carrack, an early version of the Spanish galleon. Dutch builders developed the efficient fluit. All of these vessels had blunt bows and broad beams, which made them stable and slow but afforded large carrying capacity. Shipbuilding was a labour-intensive assembly operation carried out on a seasonal basis. Different types of wood were used for specific parts of the ship. Oak was used in areas where strength was vital, and softwoods were used for decks and masts. Water tightness was achieved by caulking, that is, pounding fabric soaked in pitch into spaces between planks. Sails were made from linen and, later, canvas, and ropes were woven from h**p. Iron was used only for components such as anchors. During the 1500s methods of ship design changed under England’s Tudor monarchs, who adopted an expansive maritime policy. Master shipwrights who used plans based on empirical principles replaced the carpenter of earlier times, who built ships “by eye,” These men codified vital shipbuilding knowledge; for example, a later English shipwright, Sir Anthony Deane (1638–
American system
The American System was a protectionist policy first put forward by the Kentucky politician Henry Clay (1777– 1852) in 1824. Clay argued that protecting U.S. industry from foreign manufacturers would create large internal markets for cotton, foodstuffs, and other U.S. agricultural products. By 1832 Clay had added two other major elements to the American System: a government-financed system of transportation improvements and a national bank. Although the American System met a decidedly mixed political fate in the antebellum period, it nevertheless became a focal point in debates over national planning and global trade. Almost all of the elements of the American System became national policy after the Civil War.
Clay himself embodied many of the values and interests that the American System sought to promote. Born and raised in Virginia, Clay moved to the Bluegrass region of Kentucky, where he became a prosperous lawyer and slaveholding planter. Ever ambitious, Clay quickly made his way into politics as a devoted nationalist, and he became a leader of the War Hawk faction that supported war with Great Britain in 1812. Clay, like many planters in the Bluegrass region, grew h**p that was manufactured into rope and cotton bagging. The region’s strong manufacturing connections gave Clay a direct financial and political interest in protectionism. On a more general level, the Bluegrass region’s mix of prosperous farmers, vibrant manufacturing, and growing cities represented the diversified economy that Clay hoped to create across the nation. Clay first supported a protectionist agenda in 1816.
Thomas Jefferson’s embargo of 1807 and the War of 1812 had limited British competition in U.S. markets for nearly a decade, but observers noted with alarm that a flood of inexpensive British textiles and other goods threatened to undermine the United States’ fledgling manufacturing sector. Clay’s attempts to pass a protective tariff met with only mixed success—import duties on cotton and woollen textiles, for example, were fixed at only 25 percent of Henry Clay (1777–1852). Clay, who proposed the protectionist American System policy, was nicknamed the “Great Pacificator.” He brokered several compromises, including the Missouri Compromise, which prevented civil war—at least until after his death. the product’s value.
Depression of 1890 tariff bills
Repeated attempts to raise the tariff in the aftermath of the Depression of 1819, which struck manufacturing particularly hard, narrowly failed. Protectionists, however, made more headway in tariff bills passed in 1824 and in 1828, which significantly raised duties on woolen goods, iron, cotton bagging, and other important goods. In these legislative debates, Clay and other advocates of the American System argued that high tariffs would benefit all sectors of the economy. Manufacturers would flourish, safely protected from cheap foreign goods. Farmers and planters would also prosper as a safe, dependable home market replaced uncertain foreign markets as the major outlet for U.S. agricultural products. Merchants who coordinated the exchanges between cities and countryside would see their business grow as well.
The American System thus rested on the harmony of interests among manufacturing, commerce, and agriculture. All would benefit from a growing home market. Clay frequently emphasized the importance of home markets as a way of appealing to those who most opposed American System
The oil palm that grows in western Africa produces an edible oil that can also be used in a variety of other products, such as soap, lubricating oil, and tallow for candles. Cellophane, a transparent material used to wrap candies and packages in, is a by-product produced from the cellulose in plants.
Plant fibers are used in the production of many different types of rope. The fibers come from the leaves or stems. Usually the leaves and stems are soaked in water until the fibers can be separated and removed in a process called retting. Jute, a coarse type of rope, is grown mainly in India. Because it is easy to dye, it is used to make carpets, rugs, sacks, and burlap. Besides jute, other plants whose fibers are used to make rope products are Manila h**p, Indian h**p, sisal, ramie, raffia palm, and flax. Roses, along with other fragrant plants, contain special oils that can be made into perfumes. These same oils are also used in lotions and ointments.
Inspirational Values
Another use of plants is something that cannot be produced into an object or measured on a scale. It is an intangible benefit of plants— inspiration. Plants have an important aesthetic value; humans value their beauty. Imagine a world without flowers, plants, or trees. Plants are everywhere, and people interact with them every day, from watching tulips bloom in the spring to playing football, baseball, and soccer on lush, green turf. People enjoy the beauty of plants each time they go to a
H**p as pharmaceuticals
For many centuries and in many different countries its medicinal qualities were readily acknowledged. Just one example, the Indian Pharmacopoeia of 1868, lists it as a remedy for tetanus, hydrophobia, delirium tremens, infantile convulsions, asthma, hay fever and protracted labor. A very complete investigation of great value was carried out by the British Army in India, some extracts from which are to be found in Part Three. The herb was dropped from the American Pharmacopoeia about thirty years ago because no dependable preparation of it was known. This is hardly surprising in the absence of any classification of the different sub-species according to date and place of harvest. The dried Bowers are a dependable enough preparation for millions of people all over the world. British doctors cannot prescribe the herb itself, but they can prescribe tinctures and ointments containing an extract of it. The ointment is particularly useful in the treatment of certain types of ulcers.(source The Book Of Grass An Anthology on Indian H**p by George Andrews published by Grove Press 1967)
Sanskrit Sources
Uday Chand Dutt And George King
The Cannabis sativa has been used from a very remote period both in medicine and as an intoxicating agent. A mythological origin has been invented for it. It is said to have been produced in the shape of nectar while the gods were churning the ocean with the mountain called Mandara. It is the favorite drink of Indra the king of gods, and is called 'vijaya', because it gives success to its votaries. The gods through compassion on the human race sent it to this earth so that mankind by using it habitually may attain delight, lose all fear, and have their sexual desires excited. On the last day of the Durga pooja, after the idols arem thrown into water, it is customary for the Hindus to see their friends and relatives and embrace them. After this ceremony is over it is incumbent on the owner of the house to offer to his visitors a cup of 'bhang' and sweet-meats for tiffin.
At the session of the Berlin Society for Anthropology, Ethnology and Prehistory on May 15, 1897, Busse presented a report on his discovery and drew the conclusion that h**p had already been known in northern Europe in prehistoric times. But Rudolf Virchow (1821-1902), threw doubt on this interpretation that h**p had already been known in northern Europe at such an early time. He expressed the hypothesis that the h**p in question might have been introduced into the vase much later. The close examination of the place where the um was found, and of its position, which Busse undertook at the time of discovery showed that this conjecture could be discarded.
Furthermore, one must agree with C. Hartwich that h**p was already employed in northern Europe at the same time that it was by the Chinese and the Scythians for food and pleasure. All that remains is to determine whether h**p was imported from the Orient or whether it was already cultivated in the country.
H**p used for
The use of h**p in the manufacture of ropes and fabrics seems to have been introduced rather late. Not a single passage is to be found in the writings and mural inscriptions of the ancient Egyptians and' Hebrews which makes any allusion to such usage. Herodotus, on the other hand, reports that the inhabitants of Thrace made clothes from h**p fibers. It is related that Hiero (3rd century, BC), tyrant of Syracuse, had h**p brought from Rhodanus (the country of the Rhone?) in order to equip a ship. Pausanias (2nd century BC) mentions that h**p and other textile plants were cultivated in Elide; and Pliny the Elder (Ad 23-79), relates that the sails and cordage of the Roman galleys were made of h**p. In the second century, Galen wrote that it was customary to give h**p to guests at banquets to promote hilarity and happiness. At the beginning of the third century, the Chinese physician Hoa-Thoa used h**p as an anaesthetic in surgical operations. In the thirteenth century, garments of h**p were in common use throughout.
Cotton Fibre
Cotton fibre and plant, genus Gossypium, one of the world’s most important crops, produces white fibrous bowls manufactured into a highly versatile textile. The plant has white flowers, which turn purple about two days after blooming, and large, divided leaves. The length of fibre ranges from 3/8 to 2″ Egyptian, Sea Island. The longer the fibre, the higher the price and the more luxurious the fabric. Cotton withstands high temperatures, can be boiled and hot pressed. It is resistant to abrasion has good affinity to dyes, and increases in strength 10% when wet. The world’s leading producers of cotton are China, the United States, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Turkey, Australia, and Egypt. See Sea Island cotton and organic cotton.
CM cotton
CM cotton is a term used to describe cotton treated with monochloroacetic acid and then sodium hydroxide is converted into CM cotton. Two different variations can be designed this way. One type of CM cotton has a “starched” handle and appearance which let it absorbs water more readily than cotton and can accept crease-resisting treatments with greater effect. The other type of CM cotton disintegrates readily in water and therefore useful as a temporary yarn for making fabrics from which the unwanted yarn can be easily removed. Allow the insoluble CM cotton to be manufactured easily in mercerizing equipment at very low cost. The product can be made crease-resistant with very good effect. Sources and useful information: Prof. Dr. rer. nat. Hans-Karl Rouette Encyclopedia of Textile Finishing. Published 2000 by Springer books
Jute fibre
Jute is the name given to the fibers found on certain plants, which grow principally in India and the East Indian Islands. The common jute comes mainly from Bengal, the province east of India, where it was first known to the science around 1720 – 1725; the term jute applied on the fiber by Dr. Rosburgh in the end of 17th century. The plant is cut just about the time when it appears in full flower. The stalks are then bundled and retted by steeping in pools of stagnant water.Jute occupies third position in importance of vegetable fibers in the manufacturing scale, being inferior to cotton and flax. Jute is not as strong as H**p and the fiber becomes weak when exposed to dampness. It is extensively used for mixing with silk, cotton, flax, h**p, and woolen fabrics. The coarse varieties are made into abrasive fabrics—sacks, packing cloth, etc., while the finer varieties, in which the undesirable quality of growing darker with age is less apparent, are used for making carpets, curtains, and heavy plushest, for which they are very suitable.
Mercerization
Mercerization is a process practical to cellulose fiber and in particular, cotton. However, h**p and linen can go through this process in the same way to gain luster. The processes soak up as much as 25% more dye that makes the color deeper and shiny. This is happening because the fibre in the Mercerization operation can absorb more water. The bath contains sodium hydroxide and neutralized with acid liquid afterward. The Mercerization process happens after weaving of the fabric.
Eight O Seven 807
Eight O Seven 807 are a law that allows fabrics to be cut in the United States, garments to be assembled in Mexico, the Caribbean and Central American countries returned to the United States with tariff assessed only on the added value (sewing). It was a highly controversial law its opponents argue that the provision exports jobs from Americans to other nations and free trade. Nevertheless, another reason was that H**p was imported from Mexico and was a direct threat to the US cotton Industry. Industrial h**p was banned by law in 1937 (Ma*****na Tax Act) and added tax on anyone who dealt commercially with h**p. The passing of the act was purely economic and involved people such as Andrew Mellon, Randolph Hearst and the DuPont family. More about h**p fibre and its history USDA.org
H**p Fibre
H**p is a bast fibre that was probably used first in Asia. The fibre is dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach, but it can be dyed bright and dark colors. The h**p fibres vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use. Industrial fibers may be several inches long, while fibers used for domestic textiles are about 1.9 to 2.5 cm. The elongation of 1 to 6 percent is low and its elasticity poor. The thermal reactions of h**p and the effect of sunlight are the same as for cotton. H**p is the moth resistant, but it is not impervious to mildew. Coarse h**p fibers and yarns are woven into cordage, rope, sacking and heavy-duty tarpaulins. In Italy, fine h**p fibers are used for interior design and apparel fabrics. H**p is a very durable fiber that holds its shape. It grows without the use of pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers and can withstand harsh growing seasons. H**p cultivation does not exhaust, but rather continuously fertilizes the soil by shedding its leaves throughout its growing period. In this way, it actually returns nutrients to the soil, helping to reduce the energy demand on the Earth. It is also naturally UV resistant and dries quickly.
Retting
Retting is a microbial process that breaks the chemical bonds; it allows that hold the stem together, and separation of the bast fibre can happen. This separation needed if linen, flax or h**p fibres are to be used in textile. The two traditional types of retting are the field and water retting. Weather conditions can affect the quality of fiber; however field retting been used extensively for h**p because of mechanized, inexpensive, and demands no water.
EReusable alternatives to plastic bags
H**p is the best alternative. The cultivation of h**p (Cannabis sativa L.) is the world oldest industrial fibre dating back to around 8,000 B.C.
It was used throughout for just about everything that mankind needed.
H**p is the strongest natural fibre on the planet, for example, 26 times stronger than cotton and 10 times longer lasting.
The first Levi jeans were made out of h**p.
It requires no chemicals to grow, has very few natural enemies, and grows in the widest variety of climates.
It grows faster than any other comparable plant even 4 times faster than corn(David Icke12)
Industrial h**p has no psychoactive effects (less than 1 per cent THC) (ageold.com13).
Part one
