Jidis Technologies

17/04/2026

I am proud to be one of 3,200 entrepreneurs selected for the 2026 Tony Elumelu Foundation Entrepreneurship Programme.

Through my venture, Jidis Technologies, I am building innovative technology solutions to improve efficiency and empower small businesses.

This opportunity will help me gain the training, mentorship, and funding needed to bring my ideas to life and scale impact.

11/08/2025

📱 𝗛𝗼𝘄 𝘁𝗼 𝗙𝗹𝗮𝘀𝗵 𝗔𝗻𝘆 𝗠𝗧𝗞 𝗦𝗺𝗮𝗿𝘁𝗽𝗵𝗼𝗻𝗲 – 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽-𝗯𝘆-𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝗚𝘂𝗶𝗱𝗲 🔥

Flashing your MTK (MediaTek) phone can:
✅ Fix boot loops
✅ Remove viruses & bugs
✅ Upgrade/Downgrade Android
✅ Restore phone to factory state

⚠ 🔴 𝗪𝗮𝗿𝗻𝗶𝗻𝗴: 𝗙𝗹𝗮𝘀𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘄𝗿𝗼𝗻𝗴𝗹𝘆 𝗰𝗮𝗻 𝗯𝗿𝗶𝗰𝗸 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗽𝗵𝗼𝗻𝗲! 𝗨𝘀𝗲 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗰𝗼𝗿𝗿𝗲𝗰𝘁 𝗳𝗶𝗿𝗺𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗲𝘅𝗮𝗰𝘁 𝗺𝗼𝗱𝗲𝗹.🔴

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🛠 𝗪𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗬𝗼𝘂 𝗡𝗲𝗲𝗱

1️⃣ Windows PC/Laptop
2️⃣ USB Cable (original preferred)
3️⃣ Stock ROM/Firmware (for your exact model)
4️⃣ SP Flash Tool (free download)
5️⃣ MTK USB VCOM Drivers
6️⃣ Battery charged at least 50%

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📥 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟭 – 𝗜𝗻𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗹𝗹 𝗠𝗧𝗞 𝗗𝗿𝗶𝘃𝗲𝗿𝘀

Download & extract MTK USB VCOM Drivers

Disable driver signature (Windows 8/10)

Install drivers via installer or Device Manager

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📂 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟮 – 𝗚𝗲𝘁 𝗦𝗣 𝗙𝗹𝗮𝘀𝗵 𝗧𝗼𝗼𝗹 𝗥𝗲𝗮𝗱𝘆

Download & extract SP Flash Tool

Open flash_tool.exe

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📄 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟯 – 𝗟𝗼𝗮𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗦𝗰𝗮𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝗙𝗶𝗹𝗲

Extract your Stock ROM

In SP Flash Tool, click Choose → Select scatter.txt file from ROM folder

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⚡ 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟰 – 𝗖𝗵𝗼𝗼𝘀𝗲 𝗠𝗼𝗱𝗲

Download Only (recommended)

Firmware Upgrade (updates, may erase data)

Format + Download (full wipe – last resort)

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▶ 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟱 – 𝗙𝗹𝗮𝘀𝗵 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗣𝗵𝗼𝗻𝗲

1. Click Download in SP Flash Tool

2. Switch off your phone

3. Connect via USB (press Vol+ or Vol- if needed)

4. Wait until you see ✅ Green Checkmark

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⏳ 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟲 – 𝗙𝗶𝗿𝘀𝘁 𝗕𝗼𝗼𝘁

Disconnect phone & power it on

First boot may take 2–5 mins

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✅ Done! Your MTK smartphone is now flashed!

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💬 𝗤𝘂𝗲𝘀𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝘆𝗼𝘂:
Have you ever flashed your phone before, or is this your first time? Drop a comment ⬇

📌 Share this post to help others fix their MTK phones!

05/08/2025

29/07/2025

This image shows the internal components of a Switch Mode Power Supply (SMPS), commonly found in desktop computers and other electronic devices. The SMPS is divided into two sections:

Primary Side (connected directly to AC mains power)

Secondary Side (provides isolated, regulated DC outputs to the load)

Let’s explain all the labeled parts:

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🔶 Primary Side (Right Side - Input AC Side)

1. Input Filters:
These include capacitors and inductors that block high-frequency noise from entering or exiting the power supply.

2. Fuse:
A safety component that protects the circuit from overcurrent by blowing (disconnecting) if current exceeds a safe limit.

3. Bridge Rectifier:
Converts the incoming AC (alternating current) into DC (direct current).

4. Voltage-Doubler Capacitors:
Used in some SMPS designs to boost the input voltage (e.g., from 110V AC to higher DC voltage) before sending it to the switching stage.

5. Switching Transistor:
Rapidly switches the high-voltage DC on and off to feed the main transformer. This is the heart of switching operation.

6. Main Control IC:
Controls the operation of the switching transistor, typically with Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) to regulate output voltages.

7. Standby Transformer:
A smaller transformer that powers the standby circuitry, allowing low-power operation when the system is off or sleeping.

8. Standby Control IC:
Regulates power for the standby transformer and associated circuits, such as always-on USB ports or motherboard standby power.

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🔶 Isolation Boundary (Green Dotted Line)

This boundary shows where galvanic isolation exists—high voltage (primary) and low voltage (secondary) are separated via the main transformer for safety.

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🔶 Secondary Side (Left Side - Output DC Side)

1. Main Transformer:
Transfers energy from the primary to secondary side while maintaining electrical isolation. It also steps voltage up or down.

2. Main Filter Inductor:
Works with capacitors to smooth the pulsating DC from the transformer into a stable DC voltage.

3. -12V Diodes / -12V Regulator (-12V reg):
Rectify and regulate the -12V output used for certain legacy components.

4. -12V Filter:
Smooths the -12V DC output.

5. 5V Diodes / 5V Filter:
Rectify and smooth the 5V output.

6. 12V Filter:
Smooths the 12V DC output voltage for components like hard drives and fans.

7. 12V Current-Sense Resistors:
Detect the amount of current flowing through the 12V line for protection and regulation.

8. 5V SB (Standby) Filter / 5V SB Diode:
Smooths and rectifies the always-on 5V standby voltage used by the motherboard even when the PC is "off".

9. 3.3V Diodes / 3.3V Filter:
Rectify and smooth the 3.3V output used by modern digital circuits.

10. 3.3V Control / 3.3V Mag-Amp:
These control circuits (often magnetic amplifiers) help regulate and maintain a steady 3.3V output.

11. Opto-isolators:
Transfer control signals from the secondary to the primary side without direct electrical connection, preserving isolation.

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Summary of Voltages:

+12V – For motors, fans, hard drives.

+5V – Legacy circuits, USB.

+3.3V – Digital logic and CPUs.

-12V – Serial ports, older devices.

+5VSB – Standby power for motherboard logic.

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If you found this helpful, comment below

29/07/2025

🔋🚗 𝗛𝗢𝗪 𝗧𝗢 𝗝𝗨𝗠𝗣𝗦𝗧𝗔𝗥𝗧 𝗔 𝗖𝗔𝗥 𝗨𝗦𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗝𝗨𝗠𝗣𝗘𝗥 𝗖𝗔𝗕𝗟𝗘𝗦 🚗🔋

If you’ve ever turned your car’s key and heard nothing but a weak click—or worse, total silence—you’re likely dealing with a dead battery. Fortunately, jumpstarting a car is a simple process if you have a good battery in another car and a set of jumper cables. The image above perfectly illustrates the correct steps and cable connections for a safe and effective jumpstart.

🛠 What You’ll Need:

A set of jumper cables

A working vehicle with a good battery

A dead vehicle with a drained battery

A metal surface on the dead car’s engine or frame

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⚡ Step-by-Step Guide to Jumpstarting Your Car:

1. Park Both Cars Safely

Position the working car close enough so that the jumper cables can reach both batteries, but don’t let the vehicles touch.

Turn off both cars, engage the parking brakes, and open the hoods.

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2. Connect the Jumper Cables in This Exact Order

Refer to the image for visual guidance.

1. 🔴 Red Clamp to Dead Battery (Positive +)

Attach one red clamp to the positive terminal (+) of the dead car’s battery.

2. 🔴 Red Clamp to Good Battery (Positive +)

Attach the other red clamp to the positive terminal (+) of the good battery.

3. ⚫ Black Clamp to Good Battery (Negative -)

Attach one black clamp to the negative terminal (-) of the good battery.

4. ⚫ Black Clamp to Bare Metal on Dead Car (NOT the battery)

Attach the last black clamp to unpainted metal on the engine block or frame of the dead car.

Important: Never connect this clamp directly to the negative terminal of the dead battery. Doing so can cause sparks and potentially ignite battery gases.

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🚗 Start the Cars

Start the car with the good battery first and let it run for a few minutes.

Then attempt to start the dead car.

If the engine starts, let both cars run for at least 5-10 minutes to build up the dead battery's charge.

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❌ After Jumpstarting: Disconnect in Reverse Order

Once the dead car is running, carefully remove the jumper cables in the reverse order:

1. ⚫ Black clamp from metal surface on dead car

2. ⚫ Black clamp from negative terminal of good battery

3. 🔴 Red clamp from positive terminal of good battery

4. 🔴 Red clamp from positive terminal of dead battery

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✅ Safety Tips:

Never let the clamps touch each other while connected.

Avoid jumpstarting if either battery is damaged or leaking.

Always wear gloves and eye protection if available.

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🏁 Conclusion:

Jumpstarting a car is a quick fix to get you back on the road, as long as it's done properly. The key steps are proper cable order, using a safe grounding point, and ensuring both cars are off during setup. With this guide and a visual reference like the image above, you’ll be able to handle a dead battery confidently and safely.

28/07/2025

🖤 𝗨𝗡𝗗𝗘𝗥𝗦𝗧𝗔𝗡𝗗𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗗𝗜𝗙𝗙𝗘𝗥𝗘𝗡𝗧 𝗧𝗬𝗣𝗘𝗦 𝗢𝗙 𝗣𝗢𝗧𝗘𝗡𝗧𝗜𝗢𝗠𝗘𝗧𝗘𝗥𝗦 𝗔𝗡𝗗 𝗧𝗛𝗘𝗜𝗥 𝗔𝗣𝗣𝗟𝗜𝗖𝗔𝗧𝗜𝗢𝗡𝗦

Potentiometers are essential components in electronics used to control voltage, volume, brightness, motor speed, and more. But did you know there are several types of potentiometers, each designed for specific applications?

Let’s explore the 9 main types of potentiometers and how they function in different systems.

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🔁 1. 𝗦𝗲𝗿𝘃𝗼 𝗣𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗲𝗿

A servo potentiometer is designed to work with servo mechanisms, typically in closed-loop control systems. It converts angular position or motion into a corresponding voltage signal, allowing feedback to a controller.

🛠️ Used in: Robotics, CNC machines, camera gimbals.

🔄 Function: Provides real-time positional data to maintain precision.

📌 Note: Often built with high-resolution and long-lasting components for accuracy over time.

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🎚️ 2. 𝗦𝗹𝗶𝗱𝗲 𝗣𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗲𝗿

Also called a linear potentiometer, this type uses a sliding k**b instead of a rotating one. Moving the slider changes the resistance.

🎵 Used in: Audio mixers, DJ controllers, lighting consoles.

🤏 Function: Offers intuitive linear control of parameters like volume or light intensity.

🛠️ Design: Typically available in single-track and dual-track forms.

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🎚️🎚️ 3. 𝗗𝘂𝗮𝗹 𝗚𝗮𝗻𝗴 𝗣𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗲𝗿

A dual gang potentiometer consists of two potentiometers in one unit, controlled by a single shaft. Turning the shaft adjusts both simultaneously.

🔊 Used in: Stereo audio equipment to control left and right channels together.

⚙️ Function: Synchronizes two signals or voltages using one k**b.

📌 Tip: Ideal for balancing or controlling dual input/output devices.

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🧭 4. 𝗗𝘂𝗮𝗹 𝗦𝗹𝗶𝗱𝗲 𝗣𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗲𝗿

Similar to a dual gang potentiometer, but with a sliding mechanism instead of a rotary one. It has two sliders on a shared body or a single slider controlling dual resistive tracks.

🔈 Used in: Audio equalizers, studio mixers.

🎚️ Function: Offers dual signal control with smoother transitions.

💡 Advantage: Visual representation of levels, ideal for precise adjustments.

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🤖 5. 𝗠𝗼𝘁𝗼𝗿𝗶𝘀𝗲𝗱 𝗦𝗹𝗶𝗱𝗲 𝗣𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗲𝗿

This is a slide potentiometer with an integrated motor, enabling automatic movement controlled by software or hardware.

🎛️ Used in: High-end audio mixing consoles, automation systems.

🧠 Function: Remembers and restores fader positions during playback or preset loading.

🚀 Benefit: Enables advanced automation in live or studio environments.

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🔄 6. 𝗠𝘂𝗹𝘁𝗶-𝗧𝘂𝗿𝗻 𝗣𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗲𝗿

As the name suggests, these require multiple turns (often 10) to go from one end of the resistance range to the other. They provide fine-tuning precision.

🧪 Used in: Calibration equipment, precision circuits, instrumentation.

🕹️ Function: Allows gradual and highly accurate adjustments.

🧭 Construction: Usually features a worm gear or helical track.

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🎯 7. 𝗖𝗼𝗻𝗰𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗿𝗶𝗰 𝗣𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗲𝗿

This design stacks two or more rotary potentiometers on a single shaft but with separate control k**bs. Each k**b controls a different potentiometer, one behind the other.

📻 Used in: Car radios, amplifiers, control panels.

🧩 Function: Saves space while offering multi-parameter control.

🔁 Example: One k**b for volume and another for tone control on the same axis.

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💻 8. 𝗗𝗶𝗴𝗶𝘁𝗮𝗹 𝗣𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗲𝗿 (Digipot)

Instead of physical movement, digital potentiometers adjust resistance using electronic signals. Control is done via interfaces like I²C, SPI, or push buttons.

🧠 Used in: Microcontroller-based systems, automatic calibration, digital audio.

🕹️ Function: Controlled programmatically, with no mechanical parts.

🛡️ Advantage: High reliability and no wear from mechanical movement.

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🔧 9. 𝗧𝗿𝗶𝗺𝗺𝗲𝗿 𝗣𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗲𝗿 (Trimpot)

These are small, adjustable potentiometers designed for infrequent adjustments—typically during initial calibration of a device.

📟 Used in: Circuit boards, sensor tuning, voltage regulation.

🔬 Function: Tweaked using a small screwdriver.

🧰 Tip: Not meant for frequent use, ideal for "set and forget" scenarios.

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📌 Final Thoughts

Each type of potentiometer serves a unique purpose in the electronics world. Whether you're mixing music, designing a robot, or calibrating a sensor, there’s a potentiometer tailored for that job.

💡 If you found this post useful, like, share, and follow for more practical electronics content!

🛠️ Got questions about how to choose the right potentiometer for your project? Drop a comment below — I’d be glad to help!

06/07/2025

📢 𝗧𝗗𝗔𝟳𝟯𝟴𝟴 𝗣𝗼𝘄𝗲𝗿𝗳𝘂𝗹 𝟰-𝗖𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗻𝗲𝗹 𝗔𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗶𝗳𝗶𝗲𝗿 𝗖𝗶𝗿𝗰𝘂𝗶𝘁 𝗘𝘅𝗽𝗹𝗮𝗶𝗻𝗲𝗱

By

The TDA7388 is a popular quad bridge car audio amplifier IC widely used in car stereos to drive four speakers with clear, powerful sound. Let’s break down the components you see in this 3D schematic so you know exactly what’s happening on this tiny yet mighty board.

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🔌 1️⃣ Power Supply (+Vs and GND)

Function: Provides the main operating voltage for the amplifier.

What you see: The red wire connects the positive 12 V (typical for cars) to the IC. The black wire connects to ground (GND).

Important detail: A filter capacitor (e.g. 1000 µF, here shown as 100 nF for illustration) smooths out any voltage ripples from the car battery to ensure clean power for the audio IC.

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🎙️ 2️⃣ Audio Inputs (INPUT 1–4)

Function: These bring the audio signals (left and right channels) from the head unit (radio or media player) into the amplifier.

What you see: Input pins connect through small coupling capacitors (typically 0.1–1 µF) that block unwanted DC voltage and only let the pure AC audio signal pass to the amplifier’s internal circuits.

Result: Only the music, not any DC bias, reaches the amplifier’s internal preamps.

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🔇 3️⃣ Mute and Standby Pins

Function: These control whether the amplifier is ON, MUTED, or in STANDBY mode.

What you see:

Resistors (47 kΩ) pull the MUTE and STANDBY pins high, enabling the amplifier to turn on smoothly.

Capacitors (10 µF) filter out sudden changes and prevent unwanted pops and clicks when powering on or off.

Why it matters: Prevents annoying noises when you start your car or switch audio sources.

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🔊 4️⃣ Output Channels (L1, L2, R1, R2)

Function: These are the amplified speaker outputs that drive your four speakers — usually two left and two right channels for front and rear.

What you see: Heavy traces and clear terminal labels connect each output pin to the speakers.

How it works: The TDA7388 runs in bridge mode for each channel, delivering more power by combining two amplifier sections per speaker — giving you clean, strong output for each speaker.

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⚙️ 5️⃣ The IC Itself — TDA7388

Function: The heart of it all. Inside this IC are four power amplifier stages, thermal protection, short-circuit protection, and more.

Why it’s great: It’s robust, efficient, and needs minimal external components to run. That’s why car audio designers love it!

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✅ Key Benefits of This Circuit

Runs directly from your car’s 12 V battery.

Drives four speakers with balanced output.

Has built-in protection and soft-start functions.

Easy to build — only a few external components needed.

Delivers loud, clean audio with low distortion.

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📌 Final Note

If you’re planning to build this circuit:

Use quality capacitors for clean sound.

Mount the IC to a proper heatsink — it can get warm!

Keep your power traces thick enough to handle the current.

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Did you enjoy this breakdown?
📲 Follow Jidis Technologies for more clear tutorials, circuit explanations, and electronics projects you can trust!

06/05/2025

Hello fans, apologies for being away for so long, we shall be updating you guys soon with lots of educative contents, stay tuned🙏

31/01/2025

🥰🥰🥰🥰

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12/02/2023

How to create bridge rectifier for a 3 phase transformer/motor👇👇👇