04/09/2026
Japan: the most organised, most courteous, most aesthetically considered country on earth — and the most surprising 🇯🇵
Tokyo is a city of neighbourhoods, each with its own character and its own decades-long obsession. Shinjuku: the neon and the salarymen and the Golden G*i — 200 tiny bars crammed into six alleys, each holding maybe eight people, many open since the 1950s. Shibuya crossing at peak hour, 3,000 people crossing simultaneously in choreographed chaos. Harajuku on a Sunday, the Takesh*ta Street fashion, and then five minutes away the Meiji Shrine's forest, an ancient calm inside the loudest city in Asia.
Kyoto. Seventeen UNESCO World Heritage Sites in a city of 1.4 million people. Fushimi Inari — 10,000 torii gates climbing the mountain behind the shrine, the crowds thinning as you ascend. Arashiyama's bamboo grove at 6AM before the groups arrive. Gion in the early morning, the machiya townhouses and the chance of catching a geiko hurrying to an early appointment. The ryokan experience: check in at 3PM, be shown to your room, be brought tea and sweets, change into yukata, have an eight-course kaiseki dinner served course by course over two hours, sleep on a futon, wake for a breakfast of grilled fish and rice and miso soup and tsukemono.
The food is the point. The ramen at Ichiran where you sit in a cubicle facing the wall alone with your bowl. The yakitori alley under the train tracks in Yurakucho. The conveyor-belt sushi where the quality is absurdly high. The depachika — the department store food halls in the basement of every major building, the best food shopping in the world. The convenience stores: Family Mart and 7-Eleven sell food that would be expensive in an Australian restaurant.
Hokkaido in February: the Sapporo Snow Festival, the powder skiing at Niseko and Furano, the fresh crab and sea urchin from the Tsukiji equivalent in Sapporo. Hiroshima: the Peace Memorial Park and Museum, and the view from the A-Bomb Dome, and the Miyajima Island torii gate that appears to float at high tide.
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