30/03/2025
For the past few weeks I've been slowly building a 1KW pallet amp for HF/6M in my spare time.
1KW HF/6m -amplifiers generally cost upwards of 4K, so the pallet amps can be a cost effective alternative, coming in at ~ $2k.
My parts list and construction tips as follows:
- Pallet amp board using 4 x MRF300 LDMOS devices from VK3AMP. I chose VK3AMP because they provide a ready-built board mounted on a copper spreader (needed for 1KW) for around $850. Anyone that has tried to purchase the copper separately and do a DIY job will know why its vastly easier to purchase the ready made board and vastly cheaper unless you have the tools for this job.
https://www.vk-amps.com/products/a-1000w-ldmos-linear-amplifier-50v-1-8-60mhz-4-x-mrf300-pallet?fbclid=IwAR0FMVp12oD_QHDcFF9lPnUbH2RBeu9RsPxUion357Ab9wTexzr2tvrRGns
- For the LPF and TX/RX switch, I went with DXworld-e as they are slightly cheaper. (205 and 29 Euros resp) I would recommend using the TX/RX switch as it can switch the bias on / off with the PTT control and it also supports two antenna ports. The LFP units come in 5 & 7 pole varieties and I purchased the 5 pole option as it's a bit cheaper. However the 7pole filter does offer 10db better rejection of harmonics. Both options provide 7 bands from 160m to 6m. You can find cheaper boards on ALI express (~$120) but I went with something that was a bit more tried and proven.
https://www.dxworld-e.com/product-page/hf-lpf-filters-160-6m-1500w
https://www.dxworld-e.com/product-page/rx-tx-antenna-switching-1-80mhz-1500w
And the heatsink is an important consideration. I purchased one from DXworld-e with the other parts @ 38 Euros
https://www.dxworld-e.com/product-page/heatsink-dx-20
The PSU unit was an ALI express purchase and delivers 33A with adjustable voltage up to 60VDC - Cost was $191. You can also buy these from VK3AMP for a similar price.
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004661730742.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21AUD%21233.87%21168.19%21%21%21%21%21%40%2112000030019382504%21ppc%21%21%21&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=742-864-1166&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en1005004661730742&ds_e_product_merchant_id=107571896&ds_e_product_country=AU&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=21819463808&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzJiZzrqxjAMV5NEWBR27dyGmEAQYBiABEgKmmfD_BwE&gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm.
The case was a 3U rack mount server case from JAYCAR, cost $149. This case has 2 rails for use with spacers, which I used in my construction. see attached pictures
https://www.jaycar.com.au/3-unit-pro-grade-19inch-rack-style-equipment-enclosure-flatpack/p/HB5130?srsltid=AfmBOoofNgoSg4h7Fwq0EyhwDNIhg1EdK-KyCtaQsjjvsd2yM8bJ66l_
You might also need an attenuator pad depending on your rig's minimum power setting. I purchased a 10db 50W pad as my FTDX has a minimum power setting of 5W. If your rig outputs down to 1 watt you can possibly skip this option, but I would advise to include this to protect the LDMOS devices from the ALC spikes that will eventually degrade the LDMOS.
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006844994941.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.1.1736XvnxXvnxuJ&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.14452.396806.0&scm_id=1007.14452.396806.0&scm-url=1007.14452.396806.0&pvid=b060b224-f30d-4dac-8bd1-ec64558915a9&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.14452.396806.0,pvid:b060b224-f30d-4dac-8bd1-ec64558915a9,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%231934&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2210%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21AUD%2173.83%2147.99%21%21%2145.78%2129.76%21%402101eab017433265604243641e73b8%2112000038493540091%21rec%21AU%212864121186%21X&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A&search_p4p_id=202503300222404593780399801709850320_0
High power needs cooling. I mounted 3 quite mag-lev fans, 2 underneath the heatsink sucking from outside and blowing u onto the heatsink and one pushing air out - I used a separate voltage regulator cct inside my amp to reduce the voltage / fan speed to an acceptable audible level as the quiet fans are still making a air sound.
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005008358097680.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21AUD%2111.27%2111.19%21%21%21%21%21%40%2112000044710684392%21ppc%21%21%21&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=742-864-1166&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en1005008358097680&ds_e_product_merchant_id=107678322&ds_e_product_country=AU&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=21819463808&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5cKSgsCxjAMVz-sWBR1xzicMEAQYBiABEgK2FPD_BwE&gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm
Any you'll need a variety of other parts, such as SO239 chassis connectors, RG316 coax, SMA connector / cable, power switches and toggle switches, not included here. I used my shack collection of parts to cover most of these.
For the band switch, you can purchase a single pole 7 position rotary switch or in my case I am only using 2 bands and use a 3 position switch for 6m and 10m and auto. I'm going to purchase the linear amp connection cable for the rig and make up a cct to automatically switch the LPF based on the band data and have 7 LEDS on the front panel to show the band setting. You should also add a voltage and current meter and overload protection and I'm still waiting for these parts at the time of writing this post and will update this post later.
For bias setting, turn the 4 pots anti-clockwise and connect your 12V bias source and have your current meter on the 50V feed. Adjust each pot clockwise to add 250mA of bias current until all 4 are done adding up to 1A in total. You might need to do a few turns before you see any effect on the meter.
Upon testing, everything worked first go and the amp puts out 900W with 5W input. With the 10db pad you need 45W in for max output.